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Journal of hydraulic research / Novak, P. . Vol. 49 N° 4Journal of hydraulic researchMention de date : Juillet/Août 2011 Paru le : 04/10/2011 |
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Ajouter le résultat dans votre panierWave–current interaction at an angle. 1, Experiment / Pradeep C. Fernando in Journal of hydraulic research, Vol. 49 N° 4 (Juillet/Août 2011)
[article]
in Journal of hydraulic research > Vol. 49 N° 4 (Juillet/Août 2011) . - pp 424-436
Titre : Wave–current interaction at an angle. 1, Experiment Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Pradeep C. Fernando, Auteur ; Junke Guo, Auteur ; Pengzhi Lin, Auteur Année de publication : 2011 Article en page(s) : pp 424-436 Note générale : Hydraulique Langues : Anglais (eng) Mots-clés : Bed roughness Bed shear stress Theoretical model Velocity distribution Wave–current interaction Index. décimale : 627 Ingénierie des cours d'eau naturels, des ports, des rades et des cotes. Installations de navigation, de dragage, de récupération et de sauvetage. Barrages et centrales électriques hydrauliques Résumé : This research presents an experimental study in a spatial wave basin for nonlinear interaction of regular waves with a perpendicular shear current over a movable bed. Detailed measurements were collected for current velocity profiles under different conditions, from which the bed shear stress and apparent roughness heights were determined. These combined with the measured velocities were used to validate theoretical models for wave–current interaction at an angle. It is found that for small wave heights all models agree well with the measured mean current velocities in the combined flow, while for larger wave heights only two models are reasonably close to the measurements for current velocities. For very large waves none of the models adequately describes the near-surface current velocities, which deviate significantly from the log-law. For the bed shear stress and the apparent roughness, only one model describes the measured data well.
DEWEY : 627 ISSN : 0022-1686 En ligne : http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/00221686.2010.547036 [article] Wave–current interaction at an angle. 1, Experiment [texte imprimé] / Pradeep C. Fernando, Auteur ; Junke Guo, Auteur ; Pengzhi Lin, Auteur . - 2011 . - pp 424-436.
Hydraulique
Langues : Anglais (eng)
in Journal of hydraulic research > Vol. 49 N° 4 (Juillet/Août 2011) . - pp 424-436
Mots-clés : Bed roughness Bed shear stress Theoretical model Velocity distribution Wave–current interaction Index. décimale : 627 Ingénierie des cours d'eau naturels, des ports, des rades et des cotes. Installations de navigation, de dragage, de récupération et de sauvetage. Barrages et centrales électriques hydrauliques Résumé : This research presents an experimental study in a spatial wave basin for nonlinear interaction of regular waves with a perpendicular shear current over a movable bed. Detailed measurements were collected for current velocity profiles under different conditions, from which the bed shear stress and apparent roughness heights were determined. These combined with the measured velocities were used to validate theoretical models for wave–current interaction at an angle. It is found that for small wave heights all models agree well with the measured mean current velocities in the combined flow, while for larger wave heights only two models are reasonably close to the measurements for current velocities. For very large waves none of the models adequately describes the near-surface current velocities, which deviate significantly from the log-law. For the bed shear stress and the apparent roughness, only one model describes the measured data well.
DEWEY : 627 ISSN : 0022-1686 En ligne : http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/00221686.2010.547036 Wave–current interaction at an angle. 2, Theory / Pradeep C. Fernando in Journal of hydraulic research, Vol. 49 N° 4 (Juillet/Août 2011)
[article]
in Journal of hydraulic research > Vol. 49 N° 4 (Juillet/Août 2011) . - pp. 437-449
Titre : Wave–current interaction at an angle. 2, Theory Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Pradeep C. Fernando, Auteur ; Pengzhi Lin, Auteur ; Junke Guo, Auteur Année de publication : 2011 Article en page(s) : pp. 437-449 Note générale : Hydraulique Langues : Anglais (eng) Mots-clés : Bed roughness Bed shear stress Theoretical model Velocity distribution Wave–current interaction Index. décimale : 627 Ingénierie des cours d'eau naturels, des ports, des rades et des cotes. Installations de navigation, de dragage, de récupération et de sauvetage. Barrages et centrales électriques hydrauliques Résumé : A theoretical model is presented to describe the current velocity within and outside a wave–current boundary layer and to quantify the associated bed shear stresses for wave–current interaction at an arbitrary angle. The model assumes that the wave-induced bed shear stress in the combined flow varies sinusoidally with time while the current-induced bed shear stress follows an eddy viscosity concept. The computational procedure is given for both depth-averaged and reference-point current-based computations. Unlike other analytical models proposing different coefficients for different problems, the present model uses the same set of equations and coefficients to describe wave–current flows at any angle under any flow regime. This model agrees better with both field measurements and laboratory data than existing theoretical models. The model indicates that the wave–current interaction angle is not significant for wave–current flow properties.
DEWEY : 627 ISSN : 0022-1686 En ligne : http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/00221686.2011.574388 [article] Wave–current interaction at an angle. 2, Theory [texte imprimé] / Pradeep C. Fernando, Auteur ; Pengzhi Lin, Auteur ; Junke Guo, Auteur . - 2011 . - pp. 437-449.
Hydraulique
Langues : Anglais (eng)
in Journal of hydraulic research > Vol. 49 N° 4 (Juillet/Août 2011) . - pp. 437-449
Mots-clés : Bed roughness Bed shear stress Theoretical model Velocity distribution Wave–current interaction Index. décimale : 627 Ingénierie des cours d'eau naturels, des ports, des rades et des cotes. Installations de navigation, de dragage, de récupération et de sauvetage. Barrages et centrales électriques hydrauliques Résumé : A theoretical model is presented to describe the current velocity within and outside a wave–current boundary layer and to quantify the associated bed shear stresses for wave–current interaction at an arbitrary angle. The model assumes that the wave-induced bed shear stress in the combined flow varies sinusoidally with time while the current-induced bed shear stress follows an eddy viscosity concept. The computational procedure is given for both depth-averaged and reference-point current-based computations. Unlike other analytical models proposing different coefficients for different problems, the present model uses the same set of equations and coefficients to describe wave–current flows at any angle under any flow regime. This model agrees better with both field measurements and laboratory data than existing theoretical models. The model indicates that the wave–current interaction angle is not significant for wave–current flow properties.
DEWEY : 627 ISSN : 0022-1686 En ligne : http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/00221686.2011.574388 Experimental measurement of focused wave group and solitary wave overtopping / Alison C. Hunt-Raby in Journal of hydraulic research, Vol. 49 N° 4 (Juillet/Août 2011)
[article]
in Journal of hydraulic research > Vol. 49 N° 4 (Juillet/Août 2011) . - pp. 450-464
Titre : Experimental measurement of focused wave group and solitary wave overtopping Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Alison C. Hunt-Raby, Auteur ; Borthwick, Alistair G. L., Auteur ; K. Peter, Auteur Année de publication : 2011 Article en page(s) : pp. 450-464 Note générale : Hydraulique Langues : Anglais (eng) Mots-clés : Focused wave group Individual overtopping volume Overtopping volume estimation method Solitary wave Wave overtopping Index. décimale : 627 Ingénierie des cours d'eau naturels, des ports, des rades et des cotes. Installations de navigation, de dragage, de récupération et de sauvetage. Barrages et centrales électriques hydrauliques Résumé : Prediction of individual wave overtopping events is important in assessing danger to life and property, but data are sparse and hydrodynamic understanding is lacking. Laboratory-scale waves of three distinct types were generated at the Coastal Research Facility to model extreme waves overtopping a trapezoidal embankment. These comprised wave groups of compact form, wave groups embedded in a background wave field, and a solitary wave. The inshore wave propagation was measured and the time variation of overtopping rate estimated. The total volume overtopped was measured directly. The experiments provide well-defined data without uncertainty due to the effect of reflection on the incident wave train. The dependence of overtopping on a range of wave shapes is thus determined and the influence of wave–wave interactions on overtopping assessed. It was found that extreme overtopping may arise from focused waves with deep troughs rather than large crests. Furthermore, overtopping waves can be generated from small wave packets without affecting the applicability of results to cases in which there are surrounding waves. Finally, overtopping from a solitary wave is comparable with overtopping from focused wave groups of the same amplitude.
DEWEY : 627 ISSN : 0022-1686 En ligne : http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/00221686.2010.542616 [article] Experimental measurement of focused wave group and solitary wave overtopping [texte imprimé] / Alison C. Hunt-Raby, Auteur ; Borthwick, Alistair G. L., Auteur ; K. Peter, Auteur . - 2011 . - pp. 450-464.
Hydraulique
Langues : Anglais (eng)
in Journal of hydraulic research > Vol. 49 N° 4 (Juillet/Août 2011) . - pp. 450-464
Mots-clés : Focused wave group Individual overtopping volume Overtopping volume estimation method Solitary wave Wave overtopping Index. décimale : 627 Ingénierie des cours d'eau naturels, des ports, des rades et des cotes. Installations de navigation, de dragage, de récupération et de sauvetage. Barrages et centrales électriques hydrauliques Résumé : Prediction of individual wave overtopping events is important in assessing danger to life and property, but data are sparse and hydrodynamic understanding is lacking. Laboratory-scale waves of three distinct types were generated at the Coastal Research Facility to model extreme waves overtopping a trapezoidal embankment. These comprised wave groups of compact form, wave groups embedded in a background wave field, and a solitary wave. The inshore wave propagation was measured and the time variation of overtopping rate estimated. The total volume overtopped was measured directly. The experiments provide well-defined data without uncertainty due to the effect of reflection on the incident wave train. The dependence of overtopping on a range of wave shapes is thus determined and the influence of wave–wave interactions on overtopping assessed. It was found that extreme overtopping may arise from focused waves with deep troughs rather than large crests. Furthermore, overtopping waves can be generated from small wave packets without affecting the applicability of results to cases in which there are surrounding waves. Finally, overtopping from a solitary wave is comparable with overtopping from focused wave groups of the same amplitude.
DEWEY : 627 ISSN : 0022-1686 En ligne : http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/00221686.2010.542616 Artificial intelligence applied to plane wave reflection at submerged breakwaters / Alberte Castro in Journal of hydraulic research, Vol. 49 N° 4 (Juillet/Août 2011)
[article]
in Journal of hydraulic research > Vol. 49 N° 4 (Juillet/Août 2011) . - pp. 465-472
Titre : Artificial intelligence applied to plane wave reflection at submerged breakwaters Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Alberte Castro, Auteur ; Francisco Taveira Pinto, Auteur ; Gregorio Iglesias, Auteur Année de publication : 2011 Article en page(s) : pp. 465-472 Note générale : Hydraulique Langues : Anglais (eng) Mots-clés : Artificial intelligence Artificial neural network Shoreline erosion Submerged breakwater Wave reflection Index. décimale : 627 Ingénierie des cours d'eau naturels, des ports, des rades et des cotes. Installations de navigation, de dragage, de récupération et de sauvetage. Barrages et centrales électriques hydrauliques Résumé : The reflection process at submerged breakwaters is investigated by means of an artificial neural network (ANN) model. This model estimates the reflection coefficient based on three dimensionless products which are functions of the wave parameters and the characteristics of the submerged breakwater. The data used for training the model were obtained from an extensive experimental campaign in which seven models of submerged breakwaters were tested under irregular waves combinations. To choose the neural network architecture best suited for this problem, the performances of 400 ANN models involving 10 different architectures are assessed. Having selected the most appropiate architecture, the model was succesfully trained and validated. Excellent agreement was achieved between the model's results and the experimental data. The new artificial intelligence model can be used as a virtual laboratory to predict the reflection coefficient without a need for a physical model test.
DEWEY : 627 ISSN : 0022-1686 En ligne : http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/00221686.2011.568197 [article] Artificial intelligence applied to plane wave reflection at submerged breakwaters [texte imprimé] / Alberte Castro, Auteur ; Francisco Taveira Pinto, Auteur ; Gregorio Iglesias, Auteur . - 2011 . - pp. 465-472.
Hydraulique
Langues : Anglais (eng)
in Journal of hydraulic research > Vol. 49 N° 4 (Juillet/Août 2011) . - pp. 465-472
Mots-clés : Artificial intelligence Artificial neural network Shoreline erosion Submerged breakwater Wave reflection Index. décimale : 627 Ingénierie des cours d'eau naturels, des ports, des rades et des cotes. Installations de navigation, de dragage, de récupération et de sauvetage. Barrages et centrales électriques hydrauliques Résumé : The reflection process at submerged breakwaters is investigated by means of an artificial neural network (ANN) model. This model estimates the reflection coefficient based on three dimensionless products which are functions of the wave parameters and the characteristics of the submerged breakwater. The data used for training the model were obtained from an extensive experimental campaign in which seven models of submerged breakwaters were tested under irregular waves combinations. To choose the neural network architecture best suited for this problem, the performances of 400 ANN models involving 10 different architectures are assessed. Having selected the most appropiate architecture, the model was succesfully trained and validated. Excellent agreement was achieved between the model's results and the experimental data. The new artificial intelligence model can be used as a virtual laboratory to predict the reflection coefficient without a need for a physical model test.
DEWEY : 627 ISSN : 0022-1686 En ligne : http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/00221686.2011.568197 Simulation of wave breaking over complex bathymetries by a Boussinesq model / Mara Tonelli in Journal of hydraulic research, Vol. 49 N° 4 (Juillet/Août 2011)
[article]
in Journal of hydraulic research > Vol. 49 N° 4 (Juillet/Août 2011) . - pp. 473-486
Titre : Simulation of wave breaking over complex bathymetries by a Boussinesq model Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Mara Tonelli, Auteur ; Marco Petti, Auteur Année de publication : 2011 Article en page(s) : pp. 473-486 Note générale : Hydraulique Langues : Anglais (eng) Mots-clés : Boussinesq equations Nonlinear shallow water equations Rip current Shock-capturing Submerged bars Index. décimale : 627 Ingénierie des cours d'eau naturels, des ports, des rades et des cotes. Installations de navigation, de dragage, de récupération et de sauvetage. Barrages et centrales électriques hydrauliques Résumé : A Boussinesq-type model is applied herein to study wave propagation and wave breaking over complex bathymetries reproducing common coastal features, namely plane and barred beaches, submerged bars and rip channels. A hybrid finite volume–finite difference numerical scheme solves a set of, in the horizontal plane, two-dimensional extended Boussinesq equations where both nonlinear and dispersive effects are relevant and nonlinear shallow water equations where nonlinearity prevails over dispersion. The shock-capturing features of the finite volume method enable an intrinsic representation of spilling wave breaking and runup. Comparisons with experimental data indicate that the numerical model adequately simulates wave transformation over submerged bars, correctly capturing wave breaking onset and termination including the related energy dissipation. The development of breaking-induced currents and their interaction with wave propagation are also well represented within the applicability range of the governing equations.
DEWEY : 627 ISSN : 0022-1686 En ligne : http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/00221686.2010.538570 [article] Simulation of wave breaking over complex bathymetries by a Boussinesq model [texte imprimé] / Mara Tonelli, Auteur ; Marco Petti, Auteur . - 2011 . - pp. 473-486.
Hydraulique
Langues : Anglais (eng)
in Journal of hydraulic research > Vol. 49 N° 4 (Juillet/Août 2011) . - pp. 473-486
Mots-clés : Boussinesq equations Nonlinear shallow water equations Rip current Shock-capturing Submerged bars Index. décimale : 627 Ingénierie des cours d'eau naturels, des ports, des rades et des cotes. Installations de navigation, de dragage, de récupération et de sauvetage. Barrages et centrales électriques hydrauliques Résumé : A Boussinesq-type model is applied herein to study wave propagation and wave breaking over complex bathymetries reproducing common coastal features, namely plane and barred beaches, submerged bars and rip channels. A hybrid finite volume–finite difference numerical scheme solves a set of, in the horizontal plane, two-dimensional extended Boussinesq equations where both nonlinear and dispersive effects are relevant and nonlinear shallow water equations where nonlinearity prevails over dispersion. The shock-capturing features of the finite volume method enable an intrinsic representation of spilling wave breaking and runup. Comparisons with experimental data indicate that the numerical model adequately simulates wave transformation over submerged bars, correctly capturing wave breaking onset and termination including the related energy dissipation. The development of breaking-induced currents and their interaction with wave propagation are also well represented within the applicability range of the governing equations.
DEWEY : 627 ISSN : 0022-1686 En ligne : http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/00221686.2010.538570 Unstructured mesh assessment for tidal model of the South Atlantic Bight and its estuaries / Peter Bacopoulos in Journal of hydraulic research, Vol. 49 N° 4 (Juillet/Août 2011)
[article]
in Journal of hydraulic research > Vol. 49 N° 4 (Juillet/Août 2011) . - pp. 487-502
Titre : Unstructured mesh assessment for tidal model of the South Atlantic Bight and its estuaries Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Peter Bacopoulos, Auteur ; Michael Parrish, Auteur ; Scott C. Hagen, Auteur Année de publication : 2011 Article en page(s) : pp. 487-502 Note générale : Hydraulique Langues : Anglais (eng) Mots-clés : Estuary Localized truncation error analysis Shallow-water equations South Atlantic Bight Tide Unstructured mesh Index. décimale : 627 Ingénierie des cours d'eau naturels, des ports, des rades et des cotes. Installations de navigation, de dragage, de récupération et de sauvetage. Barrages et centrales électriques hydrauliques Résumé : Localized truncation error analysis with complex derivatives was applied to compute target element sizes for tidal flow in the South Atlantic Bight (SAB) and its estuaries. An existing finite element mesh was used to generate a tidal solution that is fed into this code, which assesses the truncation error and drives it to a more uniform value through selective mesh gradation, and results in a target element size distribution for the SAB and its estuaries. The target element size distribution is compared to the element size distribution of the existing mesh. The code prescribes larger than the initial elements for the shelf and deeper waters and smaller than the initial elements for the shallow-water region. Along the coast, elements similarly sized as the initial elements are prescribed at the inlets, but larger elements are prescribed between adjacent inlets.
DEWEY : 627 ISSN : 0022-1686 En ligne : http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/00221686.2011.552465 [article] Unstructured mesh assessment for tidal model of the South Atlantic Bight and its estuaries [texte imprimé] / Peter Bacopoulos, Auteur ; Michael Parrish, Auteur ; Scott C. Hagen, Auteur . - 2011 . - pp. 487-502.
Hydraulique
Langues : Anglais (eng)
in Journal of hydraulic research > Vol. 49 N° 4 (Juillet/Août 2011) . - pp. 487-502
Mots-clés : Estuary Localized truncation error analysis Shallow-water equations South Atlantic Bight Tide Unstructured mesh Index. décimale : 627 Ingénierie des cours d'eau naturels, des ports, des rades et des cotes. Installations de navigation, de dragage, de récupération et de sauvetage. Barrages et centrales électriques hydrauliques Résumé : Localized truncation error analysis with complex derivatives was applied to compute target element sizes for tidal flow in the South Atlantic Bight (SAB) and its estuaries. An existing finite element mesh was used to generate a tidal solution that is fed into this code, which assesses the truncation error and drives it to a more uniform value through selective mesh gradation, and results in a target element size distribution for the SAB and its estuaries. The target element size distribution is compared to the element size distribution of the existing mesh. The code prescribes larger than the initial elements for the shelf and deeper waters and smaller than the initial elements for the shallow-water region. Along the coast, elements similarly sized as the initial elements are prescribed at the inlets, but larger elements are prescribed between adjacent inlets.
DEWEY : 627 ISSN : 0022-1686 En ligne : http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/00221686.2011.552465 Wave attenuation due to Posidonia oceanica meadows / José Francisco Sanchez-Gonzalez in Journal of hydraulic research, Vol. 49 N° 4 (Juillet/Août 2011)
[article]
in Journal of hydraulic research > Vol. 49 N° 4 (Juillet/Août 2011) . - pp. 503-514
Titre : Wave attenuation due to Posidonia oceanica meadows Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : José Francisco Sanchez-Gonzalez, Auteur ; Virginia Sanchez-Rojas, Auteur ; Constantine Demetrius Memos, Auteur Année de publication : 2011 Article en page(s) : pp. 503-514 Note générale : Hydraulique Langues : Anglais (eng) Mots-clés : Drag coefficient Physical model Posidonia oceanica Vegetation field Wave damping Index. décimale : 627 Ingénierie des cours d'eau naturels, des ports, des rades et des cotes. Installations de navigation, de dragage, de récupération et de sauvetage. Barrages et centrales électriques hydrauliques Résumé : An experimental study carried out in a flume to a scale of 1/20 is presented to assess the wave height attenuation induced by submerged meadows of Posidonia oceanica. After examination of the appropriate scaling laws and selection of the model material, an extensive test programme included both regular and random waves. A semi-empirical formulation for estimating the wave height transformation along the meadow is obtained, based on energy conservation and considering that dissipation is only due to drag forces. The latter were linearized to obtain an exponential decay law. The formulation proposed depends on the drag coefficient and includes also an empirical parameter accounting for wave steepness. The model improves previous results and extends its applicability to random waves. The drag coefficient associated to the meadows is found to be better related to the Keulegan–Carpenter parameter than to the Reynolds number. Its value is given also for models proposed by others.
DEWEY : 627 ISSN : 0022-1686 En ligne : http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/00221686.2011.552464 [article] Wave attenuation due to Posidonia oceanica meadows [texte imprimé] / José Francisco Sanchez-Gonzalez, Auteur ; Virginia Sanchez-Rojas, Auteur ; Constantine Demetrius Memos, Auteur . - 2011 . - pp. 503-514.
Hydraulique
Langues : Anglais (eng)
in Journal of hydraulic research > Vol. 49 N° 4 (Juillet/Août 2011) . - pp. 503-514
Mots-clés : Drag coefficient Physical model Posidonia oceanica Vegetation field Wave damping Index. décimale : 627 Ingénierie des cours d'eau naturels, des ports, des rades et des cotes. Installations de navigation, de dragage, de récupération et de sauvetage. Barrages et centrales électriques hydrauliques Résumé : An experimental study carried out in a flume to a scale of 1/20 is presented to assess the wave height attenuation induced by submerged meadows of Posidonia oceanica. After examination of the appropriate scaling laws and selection of the model material, an extensive test programme included both regular and random waves. A semi-empirical formulation for estimating the wave height transformation along the meadow is obtained, based on energy conservation and considering that dissipation is only due to drag forces. The latter were linearized to obtain an exponential decay law. The formulation proposed depends on the drag coefficient and includes also an empirical parameter accounting for wave steepness. The model improves previous results and extends its applicability to random waves. The drag coefficient associated to the meadows is found to be better related to the Keulegan–Carpenter parameter than to the Reynolds number. Its value is given also for models proposed by others.
DEWEY : 627 ISSN : 0022-1686 En ligne : http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/00221686.2011.552464 Coupled wave action and shallow-water modelling for random wave runup on a slope / Maurice McCabe in Journal of hydraulic research, Vol. 49 N° 4 (Juillet/Août 2011)
[article]
in Journal of hydraulic research > Vol. 49 N° 4 (Juillet/Août 2011) . - pp. 515-522
Titre : Coupled wave action and shallow-water modelling for random wave runup on a slope Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Maurice McCabe, Auteur ; Peter K. Stansby, Auteur ; David D. Apsley, Auteur Année de publication : 2011 Article en page(s) : pp. 515-522 Note générale : Hydraulique Langues : Anglais (eng) Mots-clés : Model coupling Random-breaking waves Shallow-water solver Wave action Wave runup Index. décimale : 627 Ingénierie des cours d'eau naturels, des ports, des rades et des cotes. Installations de navigation, de dragage, de récupération et de sauvetage. Barrages et centrales électriques hydrauliques Résumé : Wave runup statistics on beaches, dunes and coastal structures are needed for coastal management and engineering designs. Spectral wave energy–action models are widely used to predict wave propagation in deep and shallow water, incorporating the effects of refraction, bed friction, breaking and wave–wave interactions. To calculate nearshore runup or overtopping, wave-by-wave or phase-resolving modelling is necessary as spectral, phase-averaged models only give the spectral evolution and wave-induced setup. Herein, unidirectional wave propagation up a uniform slope predicted by the Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN) model is compared with experimental data. The surface elevation time series near the breaking position is then created from the predicted nearshore spectra and input to a non-linear shallow-water equation solver to give statistical runup predictions which are also compared with experimental data. Sensitivity to the offshore position for wave input is investigated. Runup statistics are shown to be reasonably well predicted.
DEWEY : 627 ISSN : 0022-1686 En ligne : http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/00221686.2011.566253 [article] Coupled wave action and shallow-water modelling for random wave runup on a slope [texte imprimé] / Maurice McCabe, Auteur ; Peter K. Stansby, Auteur ; David D. Apsley, Auteur . - 2011 . - pp. 515-522.
Hydraulique
Langues : Anglais (eng)
in Journal of hydraulic research > Vol. 49 N° 4 (Juillet/Août 2011) . - pp. 515-522
Mots-clés : Model coupling Random-breaking waves Shallow-water solver Wave action Wave runup Index. décimale : 627 Ingénierie des cours d'eau naturels, des ports, des rades et des cotes. Installations de navigation, de dragage, de récupération et de sauvetage. Barrages et centrales électriques hydrauliques Résumé : Wave runup statistics on beaches, dunes and coastal structures are needed for coastal management and engineering designs. Spectral wave energy–action models are widely used to predict wave propagation in deep and shallow water, incorporating the effects of refraction, bed friction, breaking and wave–wave interactions. To calculate nearshore runup or overtopping, wave-by-wave or phase-resolving modelling is necessary as spectral, phase-averaged models only give the spectral evolution and wave-induced setup. Herein, unidirectional wave propagation up a uniform slope predicted by the Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN) model is compared with experimental data. The surface elevation time series near the breaking position is then created from the predicted nearshore spectra and input to a non-linear shallow-water equation solver to give statistical runup predictions which are also compared with experimental data. Sensitivity to the offshore position for wave input is investigated. Runup statistics are shown to be reasonably well predicted.
DEWEY : 627 ISSN : 0022-1686 En ligne : http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/00221686.2011.566253 Large-scale morphodynamic experiments on a beach drainage system / Paolo Ciavola in Journal of hydraulic research, Vol. 49 N° 4 (Juillet/Août 2011)
[article]
in Journal of hydraulic research > Vol. 49 N° 4 (Juillet/Août 2011) . - pp. 523-528
Titre : Large-scale morphodynamic experiments on a beach drainage system Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Paolo Ciavola, Auteur ; Diego Vicinanza, Auteur ; Francesco Aristodemo, Auteur Année de publication : 2011 Article en page(s) : pp. 523-528 Note générale : Hydraulique Langues : Anglais (eng) Mots-clés : Beach dewatering Beach profile Large wave flume Shoreline variation Water table Index. décimale : 627 Ingénierie des cours d'eau naturels, des ports, des rades et des cotes. Installations de navigation, de dragage, de récupération et de sauvetage. Barrages et centrales électriques hydrauliques Résumé : This research describes a unique set of experiments undertaken at the Large Wave Channel (Hannover) aimed to study the morphodynamic behaviour of a beach face containing a buried drainage system. The advantage of using a large wave flume is that scale effects that affected previous laboratory experiments are minimized. This compares the response of the undrained beach under controlled wave forcing with the response of the drained one with the same wave action. Low, medium and high levels of wave energy were used for the experiments, with significant wave heights of 0.39–0.83 m and wave steepnesses between 0.004 and 0.013. Any positive effect of the drains on the beach face was confined by the position of the cone of depression in the aquifer surface. The best performance of the system was observed with two drains operating at the same time under low to moderate wave energy.
DEWEY : 627 ISSN : 0022-1686 En ligne : http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/00221686.2011.574386 [article] Large-scale morphodynamic experiments on a beach drainage system [texte imprimé] / Paolo Ciavola, Auteur ; Diego Vicinanza, Auteur ; Francesco Aristodemo, Auteur . - 2011 . - pp. 523-528.
Hydraulique
Langues : Anglais (eng)
in Journal of hydraulic research > Vol. 49 N° 4 (Juillet/Août 2011) . - pp. 523-528
Mots-clés : Beach dewatering Beach profile Large wave flume Shoreline variation Water table Index. décimale : 627 Ingénierie des cours d'eau naturels, des ports, des rades et des cotes. Installations de navigation, de dragage, de récupération et de sauvetage. Barrages et centrales électriques hydrauliques Résumé : This research describes a unique set of experiments undertaken at the Large Wave Channel (Hannover) aimed to study the morphodynamic behaviour of a beach face containing a buried drainage system. The advantage of using a large wave flume is that scale effects that affected previous laboratory experiments are minimized. This compares the response of the undrained beach under controlled wave forcing with the response of the drained one with the same wave action. Low, medium and high levels of wave energy were used for the experiments, with significant wave heights of 0.39–0.83 m and wave steepnesses between 0.004 and 0.013. Any positive effect of the drains on the beach face was confined by the position of the cone of depression in the aquifer surface. The best performance of the system was observed with two drains operating at the same time under low to moderate wave energy.
DEWEY : 627 ISSN : 0022-1686 En ligne : http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/00221686.2011.574386 A Boussinesq-type model incorporating random wave-breaking / Michalis K. Chondros in Journal of hydraulic research, Vol. 49 N° 4 (Juillet/Août 2011)
[article]
in Journal of hydraulic research > Vol. 49 N° 4 (Juillet/Août 2011) . - pp. 529-538
Titre : A Boussinesq-type model incorporating random wave-breaking Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Michalis K. Chondros, Auteur ; Iason G. Koutsourelakis, Auteur ; Constantine Demetrius Memos, Auteur Année de publication : 2011 Article en page(s) : pp. 529-538 Note générale : Hydraulique Langues : Anglais (eng) Mots-clés : Boussinesq equation Eddy viscosity MIKE21 Numerical modelling Surface roller Wave-breaking Index. décimale : 627 Ingénierie des cours d'eau naturels, des ports, des rades et des cotes. Installations de navigation, de dragage, de récupération et de sauvetage. Barrages et centrales électriques hydrauliques Résumé : A recent Boussinesq-type model is herein modified to account for breaking waves in shallow water. The model is based on a system of equations in terms of surface elevation and depth-averaged horizontal velocities, in two horizontal dimensions for fully dispersive and weakly nonlinear random waves over any finite water depth. The formulation involves five terms in each momentum equation, including the classical shallow-water equation terms, and only one frequency dispersion term. This work extends the model by including depth-induced wave-breaking in one horizontal dimension, based on the eddy viscosity and surface roller criteria. The modified model was applied to simulate the propagation and wave-breaking of regular and random waves using a simple explicit finite difference scheme. The simulation results were compared with experimental data and with results from one of the most widespread commercial Boussinesq wave models, indicating good agreement in most cases.
DEWEY : 627 ISSN : 0022-1686 En ligne : http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/00221686.2011.571817 [article] A Boussinesq-type model incorporating random wave-breaking [texte imprimé] / Michalis K. Chondros, Auteur ; Iason G. Koutsourelakis, Auteur ; Constantine Demetrius Memos, Auteur . - 2011 . - pp. 529-538.
Hydraulique
Langues : Anglais (eng)
in Journal of hydraulic research > Vol. 49 N° 4 (Juillet/Août 2011) . - pp. 529-538
Mots-clés : Boussinesq equation Eddy viscosity MIKE21 Numerical modelling Surface roller Wave-breaking Index. décimale : 627 Ingénierie des cours d'eau naturels, des ports, des rades et des cotes. Installations de navigation, de dragage, de récupération et de sauvetage. Barrages et centrales électriques hydrauliques Résumé : A recent Boussinesq-type model is herein modified to account for breaking waves in shallow water. The model is based on a system of equations in terms of surface elevation and depth-averaged horizontal velocities, in two horizontal dimensions for fully dispersive and weakly nonlinear random waves over any finite water depth. The formulation involves five terms in each momentum equation, including the classical shallow-water equation terms, and only one frequency dispersion term. This work extends the model by including depth-induced wave-breaking in one horizontal dimension, based on the eddy viscosity and surface roller criteria. The modified model was applied to simulate the propagation and wave-breaking of regular and random waves using a simple explicit finite difference scheme. The simulation results were compared with experimental data and with results from one of the most widespread commercial Boussinesq wave models, indicating good agreement in most cases.
DEWEY : 627 ISSN : 0022-1686 En ligne : http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/00221686.2011.571817 Efficiency analysis to reflection of a new quay wall type / Francisco A. Taveira Pinto in Journal of hydraulic research, Vol. 49 N° 4 (Juillet/Août 2011)
[article]
in Journal of hydraulic research > Vol. 49 N° 4 (Juillet/Août 2011) . - pp. 539-546
Titre : Efficiency analysis to reflection of a new quay wall type Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Francisco A. Taveira Pinto, Auteur ; Paulo J. Rosa Santos, Auteur Année de publication : 2011 Article en page(s) : pp. 539-546 Note générale : Hydraulique Langues : Anglais (eng) Mots-clés : Harbour tranquillity Laboratory test NOREF block Perforated quay wall Wave dissipation Wave reflection Index. décimale : 627 Ingénierie des cours d'eau naturels, des ports, des rades et des cotes. Installations de navigation, de dragage, de récupération et de sauvetage. Barrages et centrales électriques hydrauliques Résumé : The effective dissipation of residual wave energy inside a harbour basin is desirable to improve its tranquillity conditions and the efficiency of port operations. The construction of gentle slopes is frequently unfeasible due to space limitations and physical constraints. Hence, other solutions such as quay walls with a perforated (dissipative) berthing face are used. This research analyses the efficiency to reflection of an innovative type of structure consisting of the superposition of unreinforced concrete blocks, with an original geometry. Physical model tests were conducted at a scale of 1/30 for irregular long-crested waves normal to the quay wall, and the results indicated that reflection can be reduced, particularly for small peak wave periods and large wave heights and water levels. This type of structure was adopted in Portuguese ports, namely in the new multipurpose terminal of the Port of Leixões.
DEWEY : 627 ISSN : 0022-1686 En ligne : http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/00221686.2011.574378 [article] Efficiency analysis to reflection of a new quay wall type [texte imprimé] / Francisco A. Taveira Pinto, Auteur ; Paulo J. Rosa Santos, Auteur . - 2011 . - pp. 539-546.
Hydraulique
Langues : Anglais (eng)
in Journal of hydraulic research > Vol. 49 N° 4 (Juillet/Août 2011) . - pp. 539-546
Mots-clés : Harbour tranquillity Laboratory test NOREF block Perforated quay wall Wave dissipation Wave reflection Index. décimale : 627 Ingénierie des cours d'eau naturels, des ports, des rades et des cotes. Installations de navigation, de dragage, de récupération et de sauvetage. Barrages et centrales électriques hydrauliques Résumé : The effective dissipation of residual wave energy inside a harbour basin is desirable to improve its tranquillity conditions and the efficiency of port operations. The construction of gentle slopes is frequently unfeasible due to space limitations and physical constraints. Hence, other solutions such as quay walls with a perforated (dissipative) berthing face are used. This research analyses the efficiency to reflection of an innovative type of structure consisting of the superposition of unreinforced concrete blocks, with an original geometry. Physical model tests were conducted at a scale of 1/30 for irregular long-crested waves normal to the quay wall, and the results indicated that reflection can be reduced, particularly for small peak wave periods and large wave heights and water levels. This type of structure was adopted in Portuguese ports, namely in the new multipurpose terminal of the Port of Leixões.
DEWEY : 627 ISSN : 0022-1686 En ligne : http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/00221686.2011.574378 Mild-slope solver including non-linear dispersion and bottom friction / Jack Bokaris in Journal of hydraulic research, Vol. 49 N° 4 (Juillet/Août 2011)
[article]
in Journal of hydraulic research > Vol. 49 N° 4 (Juillet/Août 2011) . - pp. 547-553
Titre : Mild-slope solver including non-linear dispersion and bottom friction Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Jack Bokaris, Auteur ; Kostas Anastasiou, Auteur Année de publication : 2011 Article en page(s) : pp. 547-553 Note générale : Hydraulique Langues : Anglais (eng) Mots-clés : Amplitude dispersion Bottom friction Celerity distortion Finite volume method Friction coefficient Implicit time integration mild-slope equation Roe's flux function Index. décimale : 627 Ingénierie des cours d'eau naturels, des ports, des rades et des cotes. Installations de navigation, de dragage, de récupération et de sauvetage. Barrages et centrales électriques hydrauliques Résumé : The processes of non-linear celerity distortion due to amplitude dispersion and energy dissipation due to bottom friction, whose effects are intensified in shallow waters, are incorporated into a finite volume solver of the mild-slope equation. Amplitude dispersion is taken into account in an iterative manner. The local energy dissipation due to bottom friction is computed using an existing model with appropriate expressions for the friction coefficient. Solutions to wave propagation problems are obtained on unstructured triangular meshes. Roe's flux function is used to evaluate the numerical fluxes at the triangular cell edges, and the conserved variables are updated implicitly in time. The incorporation of non-linear amplitude dispersion is found to improve significantly the agreement of computed results with laboratory data in non-linear wave propagation problems, while the effects of bottom friction are of secondary importance.
DEWEY : 627 ISSN : 0022-1686 En ligne : http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/00221686.2010.542881 [article] Mild-slope solver including non-linear dispersion and bottom friction [texte imprimé] / Jack Bokaris, Auteur ; Kostas Anastasiou, Auteur . - 2011 . - pp. 547-553.
Hydraulique
Langues : Anglais (eng)
in Journal of hydraulic research > Vol. 49 N° 4 (Juillet/Août 2011) . - pp. 547-553
Mots-clés : Amplitude dispersion Bottom friction Celerity distortion Finite volume method Friction coefficient Implicit time integration mild-slope equation Roe's flux function Index. décimale : 627 Ingénierie des cours d'eau naturels, des ports, des rades et des cotes. Installations de navigation, de dragage, de récupération et de sauvetage. Barrages et centrales électriques hydrauliques Résumé : The processes of non-linear celerity distortion due to amplitude dispersion and energy dissipation due to bottom friction, whose effects are intensified in shallow waters, are incorporated into a finite volume solver of the mild-slope equation. Amplitude dispersion is taken into account in an iterative manner. The local energy dissipation due to bottom friction is computed using an existing model with appropriate expressions for the friction coefficient. Solutions to wave propagation problems are obtained on unstructured triangular meshes. Roe's flux function is used to evaluate the numerical fluxes at the triangular cell edges, and the conserved variables are updated implicitly in time. The incorporation of non-linear amplitude dispersion is found to improve significantly the agreement of computed results with laboratory data in non-linear wave propagation problems, while the effects of bottom friction are of secondary importance.
DEWEY : 627 ISSN : 0022-1686 En ligne : http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/00221686.2010.542881 Comparative analysis of sea wave dissipation induced by three flow mechanisms / Matteo Postacchini in Journal of hydraulic research, Vol. 49 N° 4 (Juillet/Août 2011)
[article]
in Journal of hydraulic research > Vol. 49 N° 4 (Juillet/Août 2011) . - pp. 554-561
Titre : Comparative analysis of sea wave dissipation induced by three flow mechanisms Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Matteo Postacchini, Auteur ; Maurizio Brocchini, Auteur ; Sara Corvaro, Auteur Année de publication : 2011 Article en page(s) : pp. 554-561 Note générale : Hydraulique Langues : Anglais (eng) Mots-clés : Breaking Coastal protection Experimentation Porosity Roughness Wave dissipation Index. décimale : 627 Ingénierie des cours d'eau naturels, des ports, des rades et des cotes. Installations de navigation, de dragage, de récupération et de sauvetage. Barrages et centrales électriques hydrauliques Résumé : A comparative analysis is performed on the wave energy dissipation efficiency on various coastal protection devices. In-house experimental data on the performance of two innovative coastal defence methods and of traditional submerged breakwaters have been used. The analysis provides a quantitative comparison of the efficiency of wave dissipators based on either wave-breaking turbulence, near-bed turbulence, or inside-seabed turbulence decay. The comparison is made on the basis of wave height decay patterns described as a function of suitable dimensionless parameters. The dimensionless volume of maximum turbulence decay is found to be a useful parameter for the analysis. Efficiencies in reducing the intensity of the incident waves are measured by the wave transmission coefficient, which is found to range between 0.4 and 1.0. Submerged breakwaters were found to be the most efficient wave dissipators, especially for large waves, while comparable efficiencies are provided by the three mechanisms under analysis if the flow is forced by moderate waves.
DEWEY : 627 ISSN : 0022-1686 En ligne : http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/00221686.2010.544143 [article] Comparative analysis of sea wave dissipation induced by three flow mechanisms [texte imprimé] / Matteo Postacchini, Auteur ; Maurizio Brocchini, Auteur ; Sara Corvaro, Auteur . - 2011 . - pp. 554-561.
Hydraulique
Langues : Anglais (eng)
in Journal of hydraulic research > Vol. 49 N° 4 (Juillet/Août 2011) . - pp. 554-561
Mots-clés : Breaking Coastal protection Experimentation Porosity Roughness Wave dissipation Index. décimale : 627 Ingénierie des cours d'eau naturels, des ports, des rades et des cotes. Installations de navigation, de dragage, de récupération et de sauvetage. Barrages et centrales électriques hydrauliques Résumé : A comparative analysis is performed on the wave energy dissipation efficiency on various coastal protection devices. In-house experimental data on the performance of two innovative coastal defence methods and of traditional submerged breakwaters have been used. The analysis provides a quantitative comparison of the efficiency of wave dissipators based on either wave-breaking turbulence, near-bed turbulence, or inside-seabed turbulence decay. The comparison is made on the basis of wave height decay patterns described as a function of suitable dimensionless parameters. The dimensionless volume of maximum turbulence decay is found to be a useful parameter for the analysis. Efficiencies in reducing the intensity of the incident waves are measured by the wave transmission coefficient, which is found to range between 0.4 and 1.0. Submerged breakwaters were found to be the most efficient wave dissipators, especially for large waves, while comparable efficiencies are provided by the three mechanisms under analysis if the flow is forced by moderate waves.
DEWEY : 627 ISSN : 0022-1686 En ligne : http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/00221686.2010.544143 Effect of vegetation on run-up and wall pressures due to cnoidal waves / Vallam Sundar in Journal of hydraulic research, Vol. 49 N° 4 (Juillet/Août 2011)
[article]
in Journal of hydraulic research > Vol. 49 N° 4 (Juillet/Août 2011) . - pp. 562-567
Titre : Effect of vegetation on run-up and wall pressures due to cnoidal waves Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Vallam Sundar, Auteur ; Kantharaj Murali, Auteur ; Lakshmanan Noarayanan, Auteur Année de publication : 2011 Article en page(s) : pp. 562-567 Note générale : Hydraulique Langues : Anglais (eng) Mots-clés : Bio-shield Cnoidal wave Dynamic pressure Run-up Tsunami mitigation Vegetation Index. décimale : 627 Ingénierie des cours d'eau naturels, des ports, des rades et des cotes. Installations de navigation, de dragage, de récupération et de sauvetage. Barrages et centrales électriques hydrauliques Résumé : A comprehensive experimental investigation was carried out to understand the effect of vegetation in attenuating run-up over a plane slope of 1 : 30 due to the propagation of cnoidal waves. Two different types of vegetation configurations, namely tandem and staggered, are considered. Dynamic pressures exerted along a vertical wall fronted by these two vegetation types were measured, and the typical variation of dimensionless peak pressures for different relative depths of submergence of the pressure ports is reported as a function of dimensionless parameters involving the vegetation and wave characteristics. Further, typical results on the variation of the dimensionless peak run-up versus the surf similarity parameter only for the staggered configuration are also herein reported. Finally, the percentage reduction in wave run-up and pressures on the wall due to the presence of wall fronted by vegetation are reported.
DEWEY : 627 ISSN : 0022-1686 En ligne : http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/00221686.2010.542615 [article] Effect of vegetation on run-up and wall pressures due to cnoidal waves [texte imprimé] / Vallam Sundar, Auteur ; Kantharaj Murali, Auteur ; Lakshmanan Noarayanan, Auteur . - 2011 . - pp. 562-567.
Hydraulique
Langues : Anglais (eng)
in Journal of hydraulic research > Vol. 49 N° 4 (Juillet/Août 2011) . - pp. 562-567
Mots-clés : Bio-shield Cnoidal wave Dynamic pressure Run-up Tsunami mitigation Vegetation Index. décimale : 627 Ingénierie des cours d'eau naturels, des ports, des rades et des cotes. Installations de navigation, de dragage, de récupération et de sauvetage. Barrages et centrales électriques hydrauliques Résumé : A comprehensive experimental investigation was carried out to understand the effect of vegetation in attenuating run-up over a plane slope of 1 : 30 due to the propagation of cnoidal waves. Two different types of vegetation configurations, namely tandem and staggered, are considered. Dynamic pressures exerted along a vertical wall fronted by these two vegetation types were measured, and the typical variation of dimensionless peak pressures for different relative depths of submergence of the pressure ports is reported as a function of dimensionless parameters involving the vegetation and wave characteristics. Further, typical results on the variation of the dimensionless peak run-up versus the surf similarity parameter only for the staggered configuration are also herein reported. Finally, the percentage reduction in wave run-up and pressures on the wall due to the presence of wall fronted by vegetation are reported.
DEWEY : 627 ISSN : 0022-1686 En ligne : http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/00221686.2010.542615
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