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Titre :
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A Boussinesq-type model incorporating random wave-breaking (2011)
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Auteurs :
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Michalis K. Chondros, Auteur ;
Iason G. Koutsourelakis, Auteur ;
Constantine Demetrius Memos, Auteur
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Type de document :
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Article : texte imprimé
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Dans :
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Journal of hydraulic research (Vol. 49 N° 4, Juillet/Août 2011)
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Article en page(s) :
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pp. 529-538
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Note générale :
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Hydraulique
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Langues :
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Anglais
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Index. décimale :
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627 (Ingénierie des cours d'eau naturels, des ports, des rades et des cotes. Installations de navigation, de dragage, de récupération et de sauvetage. Barrages et centrales électriques hydrauliques)
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Tags :
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Boussinesq equation Eddy viscosity MIKE21 Numerical modelling Surface roller Wave-breaking
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Résumé :
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A recent Boussinesq-type model is herein modified to account for breaking waves in shallow water. The model is based on a system of equations in terms of surface elevation and depth-averaged horizontal velocities, in two horizontal dimensions for fully dispersive and weakly nonlinear random waves over any finite water depth. The formulation involves five terms in each momentum equation, including the classical shallow-water equation terms, and only one frequency dispersion term. This work extends the model by including depth-induced wave-breaking in one horizontal dimension, based on the eddy viscosity and surface roller criteria. The modified model was applied to simulate the propagation and wave-breaking of regular and random waves using a simple explicit finite difference scheme. The simulation results were compared with experimental data and with results from one of the most widespread commercial Boussinesq wave models, indicating good agreement in most cases.
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DEWEY :
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627
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ISSN :
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0022-1686
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En ligne :
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http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/00221686.2011.571817
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