Implications of nearshore processes on the significant wave height probability distribution / Daniel Gonzalez-Marco in Journal of hydraulic research, Vol. 46 extra issue (Mars/Avril 2008)  

Public ISBD [article]  inJournal of hydraulic research > Vol. 46 extra issue (Mars/Avril 2008) . - pp. 303-313 Titre : Implications of nearshore processes on the significant wave height probability distribution Titre original : Les implications des processus côtiers sur la distribution probabiliste des vagues Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Daniel Gonzalez-Marco, Auteur ; Rodolfo Bolanos, Auteur ; Jose Maria Alsina, Auteur Article en page(s) : pp. 303-313 Note générale : Hydraulique Résumé en Français Langues : Anglais (eng) Mots-clés : Nearshore processes Probability distribution function Significant wave height Weibull parameters Index. décimale : 627 Ingénierie des cours d'eau naturels, des ports, des rades et des cotes. Installations de navigation, de dragage, de récupération et de sauvetage. Barrages et centrales électriques hydrauliques Résumé : This paper analyzes the effect of hydrodynamic processes associated with the beach morphology on the long-term distribution of waves. This is made using the three parameter Weibull Probability Distribution Function for the significant wave height. The analysis shows the evolution of the Weibull position (A), scale (B) and shape (C) parameters at the three main scales of interest for engineering and coastal management applications. These are the plan (offshore) scale, the profile (surf) scale, and the swash (beach face) scale. Implications regarding processes, morphology, and numerical modeling were also analyzed and discussed. This paper illustrates how the probability distribution function of waves in the near shore zone is controlled by hydro-morphodynamic processes. The results lead to different probabilities and therefore risks for erosion or flooding, which have significant implications for coastal management decisions. DEWEY : 627 ISSN : 0022-1686 En ligne : http://www.journalhydraulicresearch.com [article] Implications of nearshore processes on the significant wave height probability distribution = Les implications des processus côtiers sur la distribution probabiliste des vagues [texte imprimé] / Daniel Gonzalez-Marco, Auteur ; Rodolfo Bolanos, Auteur ; Jose Maria Alsina, Auteur . - pp. 303-313. Hydraulique Résumé en Français Langues : Anglais (eng) in Journal of hydraulic research > Vol. 46 extra issue (Mars/Avril 2008) . - pp. 303-313 Mots-clés : Nearshore processes Probability distribution function Significant wave height Weibull parameters Index. décimale : 627 Ingénierie des cours d'eau naturels, des ports, des rades et des cotes. Installations de navigation, de dragage, de récupération et de sauvetage. Barrages et centrales électriques hydrauliques Résumé : This paper analyzes the effect of hydrodynamic processes associated with the beach morphology on the long-term distribution of waves. This is made using the three parameter Weibull Probability Distribution Function for the significant wave height. The analysis shows the evolution of the Weibull position (A), scale (B) and shape (C) parameters at the three main scales of interest for engineering and coastal management applications. These are the plan (offshore) scale, the profile (surf) scale, and the swash (beach face) scale. Implications regarding processes, morphology, and numerical modeling were also analyzed and discussed. This paper illustrates how the probability distribution function of waves in the near shore zone is controlled by hydro-morphodynamic processes. The results lead to different probabilities and therefore risks for erosion or flooding, which have significant implications for coastal management decisions. DEWEY : 627 ISSN : 0022-1686 En ligne : http://www.journalhydraulicresearch.com

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