Simulation of wave breaking over complex bathymetries by a Boussinesq model / Mara Tonelli in Journal of hydraulic research, Vol. 49 N° 4 (Juillet/Août 2011)  

Public ISBD [article]  inJournal of hydraulic research > Vol. 49 N° 4 (Juillet/Août 2011) . - pp. 473-486 Titre : Simulation of wave breaking over complex bathymetries by a Boussinesq model Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Mara Tonelli, Auteur ; Marco Petti, Auteur Année de publication : 2011 Article en page(s) : pp. 473-486 Note générale : Hydraulique Langues : Anglais (eng) Mots-clés : Boussinesq equations Nonlinear shallow water Rip current Shock-capturing Submerged bars Index. décimale : 627 Ingénierie des cours d'eau naturels, des ports, des rades et des cotes. Installations de navigation, de dragage, de récupération et de sauvetage. Barrages et centrales électriques hydrauliques Résumé : A Boussinesq-type model is applied herein to study wave propagation and wave breaking over complex bathymetries reproducing common coastal features, namely plane and barred beaches, submerged bars and rip channels. A hybrid finite volume–finite difference numerical scheme solves a set of, in the horizontal plane, two-dimensional extended Boussinesq equations where both nonlinear and dispersive effects are relevant and nonlinear shallow water equations where nonlinearity prevails over dispersion. The shock-capturing features of the finite volume method enable an intrinsic representation of spilling wave breaking and runup. Comparisons with experimental data indicate that the numerical model adequately simulates wave transformation over submerged bars, correctly capturing wave breaking onset and termination including the related energy dissipation. The development of breaking-induced currents and their interaction with wave propagation are also well represented within the applicability range of the governing equations. DEWEY : 627 ISSN : 0022-1686 En ligne : http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/00221686.2010.538570 [article] Simulation of wave breaking over complex bathymetries by a Boussinesq model [texte imprimé] / Mara Tonelli, Auteur ; Marco Petti, Auteur . - 2011 . - pp. 473-486. Hydraulique Langues : Anglais (eng) in Journal of hydraulic research > Vol. 49 N° 4 (Juillet/Août 2011) . - pp. 473-486 Mots-clés : Boussinesq equations Nonlinear shallow water Rip current Shock-capturing Submerged bars Index. décimale : 627 Ingénierie des cours d'eau naturels, des ports, des rades et des cotes. Installations de navigation, de dragage, de récupération et de sauvetage. Barrages et centrales électriques hydrauliques Résumé : A Boussinesq-type model is applied herein to study wave propagation and wave breaking over complex bathymetries reproducing common coastal features, namely plane and barred beaches, submerged bars and rip channels. A hybrid finite volume–finite difference numerical scheme solves a set of, in the horizontal plane, two-dimensional extended Boussinesq equations where both nonlinear and dispersive effects are relevant and nonlinear shallow water equations where nonlinearity prevails over dispersion. The shock-capturing features of the finite volume method enable an intrinsic representation of spilling wave breaking and runup. Comparisons with experimental data indicate that the numerical model adequately simulates wave transformation over submerged bars, correctly capturing wave breaking onset and termination including the related energy dissipation. The development of breaking-induced currents and their interaction with wave propagation are also well represented within the applicability range of the governing equations. DEWEY : 627 ISSN : 0022-1686 En ligne : http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/00221686.2010.538570

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