A Boussinesq-type model incorporating random wave-breaking / Michalis K. Chondros in Journal of hydraulic research, Vol. 49 N° 4 (Juillet/Août 2011)  

Public ISBD [article]  inJournal of hydraulic research > Vol. 49 N° 4 (Juillet/Août 2011) . - pp. 529-538 Titre : A Boussinesq-type model incorporating random wave-breaking Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Michalis K. Chondros, Auteur ; Iason G. Koutsourelakis, Auteur ; Constantine Demetrius Memos, Auteur Année de publication : 2011 Article en page(s) : pp. 529-538 Note générale : Hydraulique Langues : Anglais (eng) Mots-clés : Boussinesq equation Eddy viscosity MIKE21 Numerical modelling Surface roller Wave-breaking Index. décimale : 627 Ingénierie des cours d'eau naturels, des ports, des rades et des cotes. Installations de navigation, de dragage, de récupération et de sauvetage. Barrages et centrales électriques hydrauliques Résumé : A recent Boussinesq-type model is herein modified to account for breaking waves in shallow water. The model is based on a system of equations in terms of surface elevation and depth-averaged horizontal velocities, in two horizontal dimensions for fully dispersive and weakly nonlinear random waves over any finite water depth. The formulation involves five terms in each momentum equation, including the classical shallow-water equation terms, and only one frequency dispersion term. This work extends the model by including depth-induced wave-breaking in one horizontal dimension, based on the eddy viscosity and surface roller criteria. The modified model was applied to simulate the propagation and wave-breaking of regular and random waves using a simple explicit finite difference scheme. The simulation results were compared with experimental data and with results from one of the most widespread commercial Boussinesq wave models, indicating good agreement in most cases. DEWEY : 627 ISSN : 0022-1686 En ligne : http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/00221686.2011.571817 [article] A Boussinesq-type model incorporating random wave-breaking [texte imprimé] / Michalis K. Chondros, Auteur ; Iason G. Koutsourelakis, Auteur ; Constantine Demetrius Memos, Auteur . - 2011 . - pp. 529-538. Hydraulique Langues : Anglais (eng) in Journal of hydraulic research > Vol. 49 N° 4 (Juillet/Août 2011) . - pp. 529-538 Mots-clés : Boussinesq equation Eddy viscosity MIKE21 Numerical modelling Surface roller Wave-breaking Index. décimale : 627 Ingénierie des cours d'eau naturels, des ports, des rades et des cotes. Installations de navigation, de dragage, de récupération et de sauvetage. Barrages et centrales électriques hydrauliques Résumé : A recent Boussinesq-type model is herein modified to account for breaking waves in shallow water. The model is based on a system of equations in terms of surface elevation and depth-averaged horizontal velocities, in two horizontal dimensions for fully dispersive and weakly nonlinear random waves over any finite water depth. The formulation involves five terms in each momentum equation, including the classical shallow-water equation terms, and only one frequency dispersion term. This work extends the model by including depth-induced wave-breaking in one horizontal dimension, based on the eddy viscosity and surface roller criteria. The modified model was applied to simulate the propagation and wave-breaking of regular and random waves using a simple explicit finite difference scheme. The simulation results were compared with experimental data and with results from one of the most widespread commercial Boussinesq wave models, indicating good agreement in most cases. DEWEY : 627 ISSN : 0022-1686 En ligne : http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/00221686.2011.571817

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