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Artificial stationary breaking surf waves in a physical and numerical model / Mario Oertel in Journal of hydraulic research, Vol. 50 N° 3 (Mai/Juin 2012) 

Public ISBD [article]  in Journal of hydraulic research > Vol. 50 N° 3 (Mai/Juin 2012) . - pp. 338-343 Titre : Artificial stationary breaking surf waves in a physical and numerical model Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Mario Oertel, Auteur ; Jan Mönkemöller, Auteur ; Andreas Schlenkhoff, Auteur Année de publication : 2012 Article en page(s) : pp. 338-343 Note générale : Hydraulique Langues : Anglais (eng) Mots-clés : Artificial  stationary  surf  wave  Breaking  wave  Numerical  model  Physical  model  Tube  length  VOF Résumé : Surfing is one of the most popular water sports. A number of regional coastal hotspots have naturally breaking surf waves, but wave heights and breaking processes depend on various boundary conditions like seabed geometry, beach formation and swell direction. Since the optimum combination of these conditions is rare in time and place, the formation of surfable waves cannot be guaranteed. In addition, the sport's popularity is currently rising even in inland regions, and with it the interest in generating artificial surf waves in rivers or technical constructions to provide surfable waves at any time and place. This research focuses on small-scale surf waves in a physical and numerical model to identify easy-to-handle geometries and to validate numerical simulations as a low-cost solution for varying boundary conditions. Breaking heights and generated tube lengths are analysed for various geometrical and hydraulic conditions to find set-ups for the creation of stationary breaking waves. En ligne : http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/00221686.2012.672831 [article] Artificial stationary breaking surf waves in a physical and numerical model [texte imprimé] / Mario Oertel, Auteur ; Jan Mönkemöller, Auteur ; Andreas Schlenkhoff, Auteur . - 2012 . - pp. 338-343. Hydraulique Langues : Anglais (eng) in Journal of hydraulic research > Vol. 50 N° 3 (Mai/Juin 2012) . - pp. 338-343 Mots-clés : Artificial  stationary  surf  wave  Breaking  wave  Numerical  model  Physical  model  Tube  length  VOF Résumé : Surfing is one of the most popular water sports. A number of regional coastal hotspots have naturally breaking surf waves, but wave heights and breaking processes depend on various boundary conditions like seabed geometry, beach formation and swell direction. Since the optimum combination of these conditions is rare in time and place, the formation of surfable waves cannot be guaranteed. In addition, the sport's popularity is currently rising even in inland regions, and with it the interest in generating artificial surf waves in rivers or technical constructions to provide surfable waves at any time and place. This research focuses on small-scale surf waves in a physical and numerical model to identify easy-to-handle geometries and to validate numerical simulations as a low-cost solution for varying boundary conditions. Breaking heights and generated tube lengths are analysed for various geometrical and hydraulic conditions to find set-ups for the creation of stationary breaking waves. En ligne : http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/00221686.2012.672831