Article : texte imprimé

Artificial stationary breaking surf waves in a physical and numerical model

Mario Oertel, Auteur ; Jan Mönkemöller, Auteur ; Andreas Schlenkhoff, Auteur |

Dans Journal of hydraulic research (Vol. 50 N° 3, Mai/Juin 2012)

Surfing is one of the most popular water sports. A number of regional coastal hotspots have naturally breaking surf waves, but wave heights and breaking processes depend on various boundary conditions like seabed geometry, beach formation and sw[...]

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